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county galway the northern tour

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County Galway The Northern Tour

Galway
Galway
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The undulating plains of the northern part of the county, filled with stone-walled fields, boglands and meandering streams are the subject of this tour. We begin by driving out the tuam road to Claregalway, a village, with a Franciscan Friary, now in ruins, but still standing majestically beside the Clare River. To our right, an old Burke castle ruin is another silent witness to a troubled past.

Our journey northwards is through some fine farmland, rich green fields clothed with familiar Galway limestone walls. To our left, the green flatness is eventually relieved by the rising slopes of Knockma Hill, where according to local lore, the "little folk" or fairies once roamed.

We soon cross the Clare River again and arrive at Tuam, an ancient town with monuments to match. A 12th century High Cross, an impressive 19th century Catholic Cathedral and a mill museum are things to savour here. Nearby, St. Mary's Church contains a fine 12th century Romanesque chancel arch, which once looked down on the bowed heads of the last high kings of Ireland.
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They came to pray on this hallowed spot, the very centre of the archdiocese where in earlier Christian times, St. Jarlath broke a chariot wheel and took it as a sign to find his monastery there.

Our journey continues to Dunmore, a town whose name derives from the Irish Dun Mor the big fort. Today, a large early 13th century Norman castle of the De Berminghams tops the mound, its roofless walls are another reminder of the harsh times long since past. Nearby, in the town itself, a 14th century Augustinian Abbey stands roofless also, but reflects its former glory through the carvings on its stone doorcase.

As we leave Dunmore for Glenamaddy, we journey through countryside filled with ringforts, which were circular earthen enclosures erected to protect the farmsteads of our early farmers. There monuments disappear, however, as the land grows more rugged, and boggy areas begin to dot the landscape. It is just 14km to Glenamaddy, a small town growing outwards from the crossing of its famous four roads. We could, if time permits, drive on straight and visit Creggs where Charles Stewart Parnell, the famous parlimentarian, made his last public speech, and while there visit nearby Glinsk, which has a semi-fortified 17th century castle of the Burkes with an impressive set of chimneys of the period.

We turn right in Glenamaddy, however and as we leave this town, once famous for its singing pubs and dance halls in the Sixties, we drive the short distance to Kilkerrin. On the way, to our right, we see Kiltullagh Lake with its crannog, or artificial island, built to give its occupants protection from attack. A short trip down the road to the left opposite the lake gives us also a good view of Loch Lurgeen, a rather special raised bog, a scheduled Nature Reserve, where over one hundred species of birds have been sighted.

From Kilkerrin, we drive to Moylough and a short 4km trip to our left brings us to Mountbellew, a delightful village on the River Shiven, which is noted for its brown trout. Returning to Moylough, we drive back to Galway via Abbeyknockmoy where we stop to visit its 13th century Abbey, erected for the Cistercian Order by Cathal O'Connor, King of Connacht. A recent restoration programme has seen its chancel area re-roofed and its unique wall frescos partially restored to their former splendour. All that remains then is a 13km journey back to meet the Tuam Road, at Knockdoe, (from the Irish, Cnoc na dTuaidhe, "The Hill of the Hatches"), where the de Burgos or Burkes lost a great battle to the Earl of Kildare in 1504. It is a short distance from here to Claregalway and Galway itself.
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