the erne waterway its mountains

ENNISKILLEN The summer visitor to the 'capital of the Ulster Lakeland" will probably hear foreign language spoken as often as if he were in Dublin. for the pleasure cruising and angling on Upper and Lower Lough Erne (50 miles in length) have become increasingly popular with Europeans, tired of congested or polluted lakes. The tourist passing through will find waterbuses offering short trips. TRORY A side road leads to the Devenish Island ferry. DEVENISH ISLAND Has the best-preserved round tower in Ireland, also St Molaise's Oratory (12th century), Teampul Mor (12th century) and the Augustinian Abbey of St Mary (12th - 15th Century). KILLADEAS In the churchyard the Bishop's Stone has pagan carving on one side and Christian on another illustrating how the early monks went 'softly softly' about converting the pagans. CASTLE ARCHDALE A forest country park,nature reserve, angling centre, marina and caravan camp where a passer-by can get a 'lift' out to White Island. A shorter ferry hop is from Aghinver, off the loop road to Kesh. WHITE ISLAND A ruined 12th century church contains eight weird stone figures still causing archaeologists to argue if all are Christian or some are pagan. The scenic loop to Kesh gives fine views over the lake and passes ruined Crevenish Castle where a plot to murder the planter inhabitants in the 1641 rising was foiled by the butler. KESH Pleasant village on the Kesh river where a side road leads to Muckross Bay which has a marina with bathing beach. Good lake and river fishing in all directions. BOA ISLAND Bridges enable the road to traverse the island, said to be the last place in Ireland where druids practised. One believes it on seeing the sinister two faced stone idols in Caldragh old graveyard. Half-way along the island a free phone enables one to summon the ferry to pretty Lustybeg Island. CASTLE CALDWELL FOREST At the entrance a memorial in the shape of a bass fiddle commemorates a fiddler drowned by falling overorad during one of the boisterous waterborne parties beloved of the 18th Century gentry of Fermanagh. Nature trails and hides to watch waterfowl. BELEEK The famous pottery may be observed in the making. KINLOUGH At the head of Lough Melvin with its world famous salmon and three kinds of trout. GLENADE a splendid glacial valley whose lake is so lovely it is worth driving right round. Traverse Manorhamilton and Glenfarne towards Belcoo. BELCOO Turn due south a mile before the village, and all the streams the road crosses as it runs round the foot of Cuilcagh (2188ft) are flowing together to form the mighty Shannon. In the times of Queen Maeve and Cuchullain this valley separated the Connaughtmen and the Ulstermen who slaughtered each other for a bull. It is wild scenery all the way to Swanlinbar. KINAWLEY Back in Fermanagh again, turn right then left after a mile to circle round Knockninny hill rising steeply from the plain. Here Upper Lough Erne surprises the eye as a labyrinth of water and island. DERRYLIN Head due east and the road leaps across the lake via two bridges giving splendid panoramas, continued at the Corradillar peninsula with its nature reserve, angling facilities and bathing shore. LISNASKEA A long town of much character, whose old market house has the wise inscription "Live and Let Live". It was home to Johnny Patterson who composed "the garden where the praties grow " and "The stone outside Dan Murphy's door." Castle Balfour is a fine pile on the edge of the town. CARRYBRIDGE The handsome bridge across the Erne has seen a busy marina spring up, serving mainly the polyglot cruising fraternity passing from one lake to the other and exchanging advice and greetings. BELLENALECK More boats by the score, with restaurants, hotels and hostelries, but it cannot be called the Erne's Piccadilly Circur - only because there are even more cruisers and anglers at the Round O in Enniskillen O.