sullivans

The food is so delightfully relaxed and calm - pigeon with Puy lenils and bacon; roast cod with tomatoes and courgettes; lamb with tomato and chick peas; caramel pot; vanilla ice cream with caramelised bananas - that one realises the importance of a space like this.

It is not grandiose, or especially glamorous, but its democratic air and code of service makes it someplace which has, almost unwittingly, almost accidentally, become someplace special.