la bigoudenne creperie restaurant

The food, the character, the nature and the ambience of La Bigoudenne all seem to have been imported direct from northern France, where the phallic-shaped hat which give the restaurant its name is part of national costume.

Yet, La Bigoudenne is not the slightest bit self-conscious or arch or, most vitally patronising. In an area of the country which has few good eating houses, it has won a steady, devoted following over the years.

The restaurant has two characters. During the day it is a simple enough on-the-main-road eaterie, with good soups, crepes which are one of their specialities: egg and ham, egg and cheese, complete (egg, cheese and ham), Normandie (chicken, mushroom and cream) and salad & blue cheese.

Then, after closing for a couple of hours in the afternoon, La Bigoudenne is reborn, with napery and low lighting, and the calm of a restaurant where they are confident of their cooking. And they should be.

Good river trout. Fine veal with cepes.