a walk along the causeway coast

PORTBALLINTRAE TO BALLINTOY There's no more splendid walk anywhere in Ireland for the ordinary pedestrian and it is waymarked almost all the way. Beach road soon gives way to a pleasant path past golflinks and a bridge over the Bush, a fine salmon river. Rocky islet opposite Runkerry House is a salmon netting station, one of many on this coast. Follow cliff-top path to Giant's Causeway Centre, then take the low road to the Grand Causeway and on past strange rock formations and secret bays, including Port na Spaniagh where the Armada treasure ship Girona sank in 1588. Then up Benbane Head via the wooden staircase ( a chance here to return along the cliff top.) Stride on westwards, losing height gradually, to ruined Dunseverick Castle - capital of the fabulous Kingdom of Dalriada - and a potentially useful bus stop if you have walked enough. On now to Portbraddan, with Ireland's tiniest church (12ft x 6.5 ft) , and blond Whitepark Bay backed by dazzling limestone cliffs. At the E end the track passes between islets of Carricknaford and the old shoreline of a raised beach. Stone Age flints have been found in the sea caves. Ahead lies Ballintoy, with its boat-bobbing harbour and little white church and, after Larrybane visitor centre, an exhilarating walk along the cliffs to the swinging rope bridge that connects Carrick-a- rede island to the mainland. Distance 11 miles (18km) Minimum Time 6 Hours